As the bumper sticker reads, a poor day on the boat is better than a good day at work. However, would you truly feel that way if you were stranded ten miles from the ramp, your engine refusing to start, and your boat was full of weary, grumpy passengers? Or an outboard motor that’s not making its maximum power? You need to have a plan at that point.
You may start by searching on Google for “what causes a boat motor to lose power.” If you’re lucky, there will be a list of reasons why your engine won’t start, and one of the simple fixes will solve your issue.
But not every boater is skillful, and not every remedy is simple, so your best bet may be to ask for assistance from a reputable towing firm or another boater. You’ve come to the right place if you can troubleshoot engines independently and are reasonably handy.
Check out these ten simple solutions for the most common engine breakdowns.
Running Out Of Gas
Lack of gas is the main cause of boaters getting stranded on the water. Even though we know that you are far too intelligent to run out of petrol, you should check the accuracy of your boat’s fuel gauge and make appropriate plans if it isn’t.
Additionally, you might avoid speculating and making that awkward call for assistance if you know how much fuel your boat uses and how far it can go.
Solution:
Ensure your fuel gauge is reliable, and fill the tank before your trip.
Prevention:
Follow the “Rule of Thirds” at all times. Assume that you will need one-third of your gasoline to get out for the day, one-third to get back, and one-third to carry as a reserve in case you are delayed due to inclement weather, choppy seas, fog, or other unforeseen situations.
The Boat Engine Is Sputtering And Losing Power
Your boat feels like it is losing power (you have ruled out running out of fuel, which is the most common cause of breakdowns). Your plugs are likely fouled, or you have a filter issue. That may be the cause of the power outage in your boat motor.
Solution:
Change the gasoline filter to one that is in line. Yes, you did pack an extra. If not, you can at least empty any collected water and remove any debris from the filter element.
Inboard and outboard (I/O) vessel owners should fully air the engine compartment before starting again. If not, a blocked filter will appear to be a small problem.
Prevention:
While it is possible to purchase tainted fuel, it is more likely to occur while the fuel is in your boat. Long-term storage of a nearly empty tank might result in water and condensation in the gas.
Fill the tank for long-term storage, and if you want to store it for longer than three months, consider using a fuel stabilizer. If so, be sure you run the boat for sufficient time so the engine receives the treated gas.
Debris at the bottom of older tanks may be agitated when fuel levels decrease. Increasing filtration could be the best course of action. Think about installing a bigger aftermarket gasoline filter. Remember to include the extra parts as well.
Spark plugs could be the cause if the gas isn’t the problem. Although it is more common with older outboards, any engine could benefit from a short inspection for this issue. Keep spares and the tools needed to replace them with you.
Engine Won’t Start
The disappointment of not hearing anything is known to everybody who has ever turned an ignition key. Once more, there’s a good chance that the electrical problem is to blame, such as a dead or low battery or a break in the ignition circuit.
Solution:
Examine the stop switch. Verify that neutral is selected on the shifter. Next, give the starter switch itself close attention. An ignition switch on the dash may occasionally break loose from its fitting, enabling the key to turn the entire switch mechanism.
To fix this, all you need to do is reach beneath the dash and tighten the mounting screws or retaining nut. A low battery may cause the starter’s moaning, but it might also be a loose or bad connection.
Prevention:
We’ll say it again: periodically check, clean, and replace your wiring. If your crew tends to play loud music while at anchor and draining the battery, you might want to install a second battery bank or metering equipment that keeps an eye on the supply and maintains a reserve to guarantee a restart.
Boat Engine Is Overheating
The temperature gauge’s needle is rising. This usually always indicates that the cooling loop’s water flow is inadequate.
Unlike your car, outboards and most small inboards and I/Os use the water they float on to cool their engines instead of having radiators. If the water stops flowing, the engine may overheat and eventually malfunction.
Solution:
Follow the origin. The issue is usually caused by weeds, mud, or a plastic bag blocking the raw water intake. Find the intake and empty it. Water flow can also be slowed by a broken or split hose, which can potentially spray harmful moisture around the engine.
Prevention:
Service and replace the impeller regularly. Examine the housing’s state as well. Pumping power loss can occur even with a high-quality impeller due to metal housing pitting or scarring.
Ensure you or your mechanic inspects the exhaust system for corrosion or blockages. Have the exhaust risers and related parts opened up for inspection regularly.
Additional problems with engines using closed-loop cooling systems—a radiator cooled by raw water—include internal heat exchanger blockage. The secret is routine maintenance, which goes beyond making sure the coolant reservoir is filled.
Boat Motor Stopped Suddenly
If you’re lucky, the kill switch was just bumped. Or perhaps you run out of petrol. If neither of these functions properly, an electrical malfunction is typically indicated. Possible causes include rust, a loose connection, a blown fuse, or a tripped breaker.
Solution:
Begin with the most basic of scenarios. If your boat has a kill switch and lanyard, ensure the key is secure. Occasionally, it may appear engaged, but it has slipped a little to cause the switch to flip.
It is also possible for ignition switches to malfunction or have loose connections. Although this issue will usually become apparent during engine startup, it is still advisable to experiment with the switch and examine the associated fuse or breaker before addressing the engine-related issues.
The most common cause of issues at the business end, where the large wires are located, is corrosion. Even boaters who fiercely care for the battery terminals may forget that those cables have another end and occasionally need cleaning.
Prevention:
Acquire knowledge of the different parts that make up the ignition system. Regularly check, clean, and apply an anti-corrosion product to every exposed connection.
Vibration From The Engine Prop
The vibration gets worse the faster you try to move. As the boat slows down, you can sense the engine revving faster.
Solution:
There’s probably a problem with the prop. A tow rope or fishing line might snarl the shaft; a direct blow on an object could remove or misshape enough metal to render the prop unusable; a cut or gouge in the blade can cause unbalance and vibration.
Occasionally, a prop that seems good may have enough hidden damage or distortion to allow vibration and cavitation. Your best bet is to slow down and concentrate on getting to shore, as changing to a spare prop or being advised out on the water isn’t always easy.
Prevention:
Consider bringing an extra prop and the instruments needed to switch with you if you have to change props away from home; practice beforehand to avoid surprises.
Engine Won’t Shift Into Gear
You push the shifter and pull away from the pier. The boat doesn’t ever slow down. The shifter is not engaging the transmission.
Solution:
It could be a fuse if your electronic controls are e-link. However, as mechanical cable shifts are still used in 90% of small boats, the likely cause is a broken or blocked linkage. Make sure the cable hasn’t come loose from the shift lever on the transmission housing by starting at the gearbox.
Don’t try any complicated docking techniques if internal corrosion has caused the cable to become stuck. Instead, try wiggling it free or, if necessary, shifting manually at the engine or transmission.
There may be little you can do while out on the lake if the issue appears to be with the transmission side of the linkage rather than the cable side. This could indicate that a transmission failure has occurred. Significant issues with boat transmissions need to be fixed by an engine mechanic.
Prevention:
Lack of fluid or gear oil is the main reason for transmission failure, so make sure to keep those levels topped off and changed as recommended. Maintain the hardware and end fittings regularly and service the cable on occasion.
Trim Is Stuck On Your Engine
When you return to the ramp to place the boat on its trailer and ready for the highway, the outdrive/outboard won’t raise.
Solution:
If the fuse isn’t the issue, there may be a mechanical or hydraulic issue. Wading out back and lifting it by hand is an easy fix.
You will need to locate the trim release valve, which is typically a little screw close to the outdrive/outboard’s base, to accomplish this. This valve will release the hydraulic loop’s pressure, enabling the drive to tilt.
Prevention:
Keep the fluid reservoir’s contents sufficient and do routine inspections to ensure no leaks or water intrusions.
Lack Of Engine Maintenance
Just because a yacht appears tidy doesn’t mean it has been well-maintained. Dealers would often tell tales of well-meaning boat owners who were so diligent about washing and polishing their craft that they neglected to maintain the internal parts of their craft. Though most of us dislike doing maintenance, engine rebuilders Vancouver BC may help a lot.
Solution:
We recommend that you work with your local NMMA-certified dealer to construct a checklist so that you can keep track of what has to be done and when. Adhering to those guidelines may significantly lower your chances of ever becoming stuck on the water.
Broken Drive Belt
The general engine noise is usually not going to be the sound of a drive belt snapping, but when the overheat warning light appears or your voltage meter indicates that the alternator isn’t charging, you’ll know something is amiss.
A situation specific to inboards and I/Os is a damaged belt, which can quickly bring you to a stop. If the belt is broken, you will not have an alternator or water pump.
Solution:
Many instructions for making a makeshift belt out of pantyhose, fishing line, or similar materials are available online. While this could work, wouldn’t it be simpler to simply carry a spare and the tools required to change it?
Prevention:
Examine, adjust, and style the belt. You may also want to look at the contact surfaces of the pulleys. Rust occasionally results in rough patches on the pulleys that quickly wear down a brand-new belt.
Avoid Headaches While on the Water
Your diesel engine can continue to produce power with routine maintenance. Rebuilding and overhauling your diesel engine is a smart preventive measure to maintain longevity and performance.
It is recommended that your engine and pocketbook look into overhaul possibilities if you have any problems mentioned above.
If a professional does not handle minor difficulties appropriately and promptly, they can escalate rapidly into significant problems. When an engine overhaul is required, save yourself the time and money it would take to replace your engine.
